But before you get growing with your lawn,
there are a few steps you need to do to prepare. Have your soil tested for both acidity
(pH) and fertility. You can buy a simple kit at your hardware or garden store to do this.
If you have a low pH, you'll need to add lime. With a high pH, you'll need to add sulfur.
You'll probably need to add fertilizer to your lawn to create a
healthy base for your grass. There are many different types of fertilizer for a range of
growing needs.
Fertilize to Energize Your Lawn
What does fertilizer do? It is like vitamins for your lawn - - it
promotes new grass growth, counteracts insect damage or disease and eliminates competition
with weeds for available nutrients.
There are several types of fertilizer - -organics that are
natural and composed of hydrocarbon compounds. These provide long term feeding and will
not burn your lawn. If you want a green lawn quickly, use inorganic fertilizer made from
mineral compounds that provide fast feeding and fast results for your lawn. But be careful
in your application, inorganic fertilizer can cause burning. Synthetic organics combine
the best of both fertilizers -- providing quick greening and long-lasting, non-burning
feeding.
When to Seed, Sod & Apply Fertilizer to your Lawn
The following table is a general guideline for basic lawn
activity and the timing of fertilizer applications for various turf grasses.
Our area is unusual, in that we are considered
"Northern" due to our colder winters. Its possible to also consider some
of the "Transitional Turfs", too.
Northern Zone Turf
Bluegrass Ryegrass Fine & TalI Fescues
Transitional Zone Turf
Bluegrass, Ryegrass, Fine & Tall Fescues, Bermudagrass,
Zoysiagrass
Nutrition
There are several essential nutrients in good fertilizer --
Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P205) and Potash (K20). Nitrogen promotes rapid growth of new
shoots and leaves, enhances dark green color, and increases tolerance to the climate.
Phosphorus promotes strong root structure and aids plant's ability to use energy. Potash,
or potassium, maintains salt balance, builds tolerance to weather and enhances overall
health.
You've probably seen fertilizers listed as 15-30-15 or 4-1-2, but
what does this mean? This is the ratio of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potash in the
fertilizer. These are always listed on the bag in this order and tell you what the
fertilizer will do for your lawn.
For new lawns, use a fertilizer like Green Thumb (seed and sod
starter) to promote healthy roots and strong growth. For mature lawns, use Green Thumb
Summerizer lawn fertilizer with low nitrogen to reduce fertilizer burns and improve plant
health and hardiness. If your lawn has weeds, try Green Thumb Crabgrass Preventer lawn
fertilizer to kill crabgrass or Green Thumb Weed and Feed to eliminate other weeds while
promoting grass growth. In the fall, use a fertilizer like Green Thumb Winterizer to
promote strong root development over the winter.
The best way to apply fertilizer is not by hand. Instead, use an
accurate drop type spreader or a broadcast spreader that delivers uniform distribution and
prevents the appearance of spotty Hush growth or burned patches.

Sowing Your Seed
Different grass types are designed to work in different climates.
Sometimes, you may even need different types of grass in high sun areas and shady spots.
Ask the expert at your local hardware store about what's right for your particular area.
To prepare ground for a new lawn, rototill the top soil to a
depth of two to three inches. You can usually rent tillers at your local hardware store
that make this job much easier. Then grade, water well and apply a fertilizer high in
phosphorus, such as Green Thumb Seed and Sod Starter.
If you are starting from seed, apply seed using a Green Thumb
drop spreader to ensure even coverage. Then lightly rake the seed into the soil to prevent
it blowing away. Once the grass is 2" high, you can begin mowing.
For a quick start on your lawn, consider sod. You can usually
order sod from your local garden center. Once it is delivered, lay sod immediately to
prevent it from drying out. Fit edges together tightly and do not stretch. You'll need to
keep the sodded lawn moist for about two weeks until the grass is established, then you
can begin mowing regularly.
Mowing Tips
Your mowing technique is key to making your lawn look great and
improve its overall health. The techniques include:
· Don't mow grass when it is wet.
This can damage the blades of both your mower and your grass.
If you have to mow moist grass --grease your mower blade with
vegetable oil spray like PAM. The grass won't stick and you'll get a smooth, even cut.
Never cut lawn by more than one-third of its current length. Instead, mow once at a higher
setting then again at a lower setting
· Cut your lawn high -- about three
inches to help limit weed growth, reduce watering needs and promote strong roots
· Don't cut your lawn obsessively --
mow every five days under normal conditions, every seven days during dry conditions
· Mow at full throttle for best
performance
· Mow with a sharp blade -- dull
blades cause bruised and ragged leaf tips.
Thatching
Thatch isn't just for roofs. It is a layer of organic matter that
forms between the grass blades and the soil line and slowly strangles your grass. A little
bit of thatch -- less than 1/2"-- cushions the turf and helps conserve moisture. But
if it is over 1/2", thatch can cause grass to have shallow roots and become sensitive
to climate changes. You have too much thatch if your lawn feels spongy when you walk on
it.
What causes thatch? Frequent, shallow watering;
overfertilization; infrequent mowing without removing clippings; and excessive use of
pesticides. To get rid of thatch, you must cut through the thatch with a thatching rake --
it has knife-like blades that cut and remove the debris. You can also rent a gas-powered
dethatcher from your local hardware store or rental store. The dethatcher cuts through the
thatch with rotating blades or stiff wire tines. After dethatching, you may want to reseed
to improve your lawn's health.
The Basic Tools of Lawn Care
· Lawn mower, usually self-propelled,
gas or electric, walk hehind model
· Edger, clippers or string trimmer
for maintaining edges
· Sprinklers, such as oscillating
sprinklers that attach to your hose or installed in-ground sprinkler system
· Fertilizer spreader
· Leaf rake for leaves and other
debris
A Breath of Fresh Air
Before you fertilize and overseed each Spring, you should aerate
your lawn for a breath of fresh air. Aeration is the removal of small cores of soil from
your lawn which helps to break up compact dirt and packed mulch. Even more important,
these holes allow vital air, water and fertilizer down to the root area.
One easy way to aerate your lawn: lace up your golf shoes
and walk around your yard -- as long as your shoes aren't spike-less. Your local hardware
store also has special aeration equipment for the job.
Weed Patrol Key to Control
Strong, healthy grass is the best defense against weeds. But if
you are invaded by these pesky plants, you need to go on the offensive. First, identify
the type of weed -- whether grassy weeds such as crabgrass or goosegrass or broadleaf
weeds like dandelions, chickweeds or clover. For grassy weeds, use a pre-emergent weed
control like Green Thumb Crabgrass Preventer lawn fertilizer to control weeds before they
emerge from the soil. This should be done in early Spring as your grass begins growing.
Broadleaf weeds need tough treatment like Green Thumb Weed and Feed lawn fertilizer. This
is applied when weeds are actively growing. Follow the directions carefully, and you
should soon be weed-free.
Bug Off!
Damage caused by insects, disease, chemical burn and drought
often appear similar, but left unchecked, insects can wreck your lawn. There are two types
of insects --surface-feeding bugs that eat leaves, stems and plant juices, such as
cutworms and chinch bugs, and underground feeders like grubs that attack the roots.
Carefully examine the damage and the bugs to determine what kind of insects you have, then
ask your local hardware store for advice on the best product to get rid of them.
Water, Water Everywhere
During the driest period of summer, lawns require at least
1" of water every five to six days. Most sprinklers apply 1/4" to
11/3" of water per hour, so they need to run approximately four hours in one spot. If
water runs off the lawn before 1" is applied, turn the sprinkler off, let the water
soak in for an hour, then continue watering.