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Put Your Green Thumb
to Work to Get the Best
Lawn on the Block!

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 Every spring, you dream of having a great lawn, but by August, you've resigned your lawn to dandelions, crabgrass and a few brown patches. But there is hope. Creating a fantastic lawn doesn't require a degree in agronomy, just some helpful tips, a season long plan for your lawn and some great lawn products that give you the green thumb you want.

 

Getting Started

The first step is creating a season long plan for your lawn, beginning with an analysis of your soil condition, your climate and even the amount of sun and shade your lawn will receive. Then, use the helpful Green Thumb growing charts to map out when you'll need to seed, fertilize, apply weed and insect control and mow throughout the growing season.

But before you get growing with your lawn, there are a few steps you need to do to prepare. Have your soil tested for both acidity (pH) and fertility. You can buy a simple kit at your hardware or garden store to do this. If you have a low pH, you'll need to add lime. With a high pH, you'll need to add sulfur.

You'll probably need to add fertilizer to your lawn to create a healthy base for your grass. There are many different types of fertilizer for a range of growing needs.

 

Fertilize to Energize Your Lawn

What does fertilizer do? It is like vitamins for your lawn - - it promotes new grass growth, counteracts insect damage or disease and eliminates competition with weeds for available nutrients.

There are several types of fertilizer - -organics that are natural and composed of hydrocarbon compounds. These provide long term feeding and will not burn your lawn. If you want a green lawn quickly, use inorganic fertilizer made from mineral compounds that provide fast feeding and fast results for your lawn. But be careful in your application, inorganic fertilizer can cause burning. Synthetic organics combine the best of both fertilizers -- providing quick greening and long-lasting, non-burning feeding.

 

When to Seed, Sod & Apply Fertilizer to your Lawn

The following table is a general guideline for basic lawn activity and the timing of fertilizer applications for various turf grasses.

Our area is unusual, in that we are considered "Northern" due to our colder winters. It’s possible to also consider some of the "Transitional Turfs", too.

Northern Zone Turf

Bluegrass Ryegrass Fine & TalI Fescues

Transitional Zone Turf

Bluegrass, Ryegrass, Fine & Tall Fescues, Bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass 

Nutrition

There are several essential nutrients in good fertilizer -- Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P205) and Potash (K20). Nitrogen promotes rapid growth of new shoots and leaves, enhances dark green color, and increases tolerance to the climate. Phosphorus promotes strong root structure and aids plant's ability to use energy. Potash, or potassium, maintains salt balance, builds tolerance to weather and enhances overall health.

You've probably seen fertilizers listed as 15-30-15 or 4-1-2, but what does this mean? This is the ratio of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potash in the fertilizer. These are always listed on the bag in this order and tell you what the fertilizer will do for your lawn.

For new lawns, use a fertilizer like Green Thumb (seed and sod starter) to promote healthy roots and strong growth. For mature lawns, use Green Thumb Summerizer lawn fertilizer with low nitrogen to reduce fertilizer burns and improve plant health and hardiness. If your lawn has weeds, try Green Thumb Crabgrass Preventer lawn fertilizer to kill crabgrass or Green Thumb Weed and Feed to eliminate other weeds while promoting grass growth. In the fall, use a fertilizer like Green Thumb Winterizer to promote strong root development over the winter.

The best way to apply fertilizer is not by hand. Instead, use an accurate drop type spreader or a broadcast spreader that delivers uniform distribution and prevents the appearance of spotty Hush growth or burned patches.

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Sowing Your Seed

Different grass types are designed to work in different climates. Sometimes, you may even need different types of grass in high sun areas and shady spots. Ask the expert at your local hardware store about what's right for your particular area.

To prepare ground for a new lawn, rototill the top soil to a depth of two to three inches. You can usually rent tillers at your local hardware store that make this job much easier. Then grade, water well and apply a fertilizer high in phosphorus, such as Green Thumb Seed and Sod Starter.

If you are starting from seed, apply seed using a Green Thumb drop spreader to ensure even coverage. Then lightly rake the seed into the soil to prevent it blowing away. Once the grass is 2" high, you can begin mowing.

For a quick start on your lawn, consider sod. You can usually order sod from your local garden center. Once it is delivered, lay sod immediately to prevent it from drying out. Fit edges together tightly and do not stretch. You'll need to keep the sodded lawn moist for about two weeks until the grass is established, then you can begin mowing regularly.

 

Mowing Tips

Your mowing technique is key to making your lawn look great and improve its overall health. The techniques include:

· Don't mow grass when it is wet. This can damage the blades of both your mower and your grass.

If you have to mow moist grass --grease your mower blade with vegetable oil spray like PAM. The grass won't stick and you'll get a smooth, even cut. Never cut lawn by more than one-third of its current length. Instead, mow once at a higher setting then again at a lower setting

· Cut your lawn high -- about three inches to help limit weed growth, reduce watering needs and promote strong roots

· Don't cut your lawn obsessively -- mow every five days under normal conditions, every seven days during dry conditions

· Mow at full throttle for best performance

· Mow with a sharp blade -- dull blades cause bruised and ragged leaf tips.

 

Thatching

Thatch isn't just for roofs. It is a layer of organic matter that forms between the grass blades and the soil line and slowly strangles your grass. A little bit of thatch -- less than 1/2"-- cushions the turf and helps conserve moisture. But if it is over 1/2", thatch can cause grass to have shallow roots and become sensitive to climate changes. You have too much thatch if your lawn feels spongy when you walk on it.

What causes thatch? Frequent, shallow watering; overfertilization; infrequent mowing without removing clippings; and excessive use of pesticides. To get rid of thatch, you must cut through the thatch with a thatching rake -- it has knife-like blades that cut and remove the debris. You can also rent a gas-powered dethatcher from your local hardware store or rental store. The dethatcher cuts through the thatch with rotating blades or stiff wire tines. After dethatching, you may want to reseed to improve your lawn's health.

 

The Basic Tools of Lawn Care

· Lawn mower, usually self-propelled, gas or electric, walk hehind model

· Edger, clippers or string trimmer for maintaining edges

· Sprinklers, such as oscillating sprinklers that attach to your hose or installed in-ground sprinkler system

· Fertilizer spreader

· Leaf rake for leaves and other debris 

 

A Breath of Fresh Air

Before you fertilize and overseed each Spring, you should aerate your lawn for a breath of fresh air. Aeration is the removal of small cores of soil from your lawn which helps to break up compact dirt and packed mulch. Even more important, these holes allow vital air, water and fertilizer down to the root area.

 

One easy way to aerate your lawn: lace up your golf shoes and walk around your yard -- as long as your shoes aren't spike-less. Your local hardware store also has special aeration equipment for the job.

 

Weed Patrol Key to Control

Strong, healthy grass is the best defense against weeds. But if you are invaded by these pesky plants, you need to go on the offensive. First, identify the type of weed -- whether grassy weeds such as crabgrass or goosegrass or broadleaf weeds like dandelions, chickweeds or clover. For grassy weeds, use a pre-emergent weed control like Green Thumb Crabgrass Preventer lawn fertilizer to control weeds before they emerge from the soil. This should be done in early Spring as your grass begins growing. Broadleaf weeds need tough treatment like Green Thumb Weed and Feed lawn fertilizer. This is applied when weeds are actively growing. Follow the directions carefully, and you should soon be weed-free.

 

Bug Off!

Damage caused by insects, disease, chemical burn and drought often appear similar, but left unchecked, insects can wreck your lawn. There are two types of insects --surface-feeding bugs that eat leaves, stems and plant juices, such as cutworms and chinch bugs, and underground feeders like grubs that attack the roots. Carefully examine the damage and the bugs to determine what kind of insects you have, then ask your local hardware store for advice on the best product to get rid of them.

 

Water, Water Everywhere

During the driest period of summer, lawns require at least 1" of water every five to six days. Most sprinklers apply 1/4" to 11/3" of water per hour, so they need to run approximately four hours in one spot. If water runs off the lawn before 1" is applied, turn the sprinkler off, let the water soak in for an hour, then continue watering.

We have an excellent assortment of lawn watering supplies, including underground and above ground!

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